I recently had a chance to visit Sowcarpet....that mythical, elusive center of trade where a simple understanding of streets and lanes can separate the newbies from the veterans. Since I have never once proclaimed my understanding of anything the opposite of lateral like navigating tiny lanes and crammed shops selling any which thing under the sun and you would know which category I fall into. So it was with delicious glee that I agreed to go along with a neighbour whose children and Ana kutti are of the same age, are friends and go to the same school.
One Wednesday afternoon she proposed that we go to Sowcarpet to help choose a pair of good bicycles for her twins whose birthday was coming up at the end of last month. I jumped up to the suggestion and on a dusty, hot afternoon, we left our kids sleeping in their respective homes and took an auto (because a taxi is way impractical) to Sowcarpet. It was just as I remembered from one earlier visit - un-navigable by a four wheeler or even a two wheeler but somehow okay for the ubiquitous three wheeler, confusing, mesmerizing and one of a kind. We left the auto guy and proceeded on foot to the first street in the place - Govindappa Naicken road. That was the only clear thought and bearing I had of my place before I was engulfed by the tiny streets that off shoot from the main road. K, who has the height and gait that screams nobody better mess with her set off purposefully clutching a small sheet of paper in her hand.
Since she plans on selling snacks from home under the rather sweet name Kitty Bites, she had quite a list of things to buy. Govindappa Naicken street seemed to be the place for dry fruits and nuts. I ended up buying sunflower seeds, black raisins for those cinnamon rolls I love making from time to time and fragrant mouth freshner in the very first shop we went. And I was supposed to have been a bystander in this trip.
We next went into a street selling all manner of bicycles - from a toddler's to a grown-up's and many were at competitive rates. After shortlisting two, a quick walk from there took us to through colourful vessels and utensil shops, many loaded with beautiful gift packs and return gifts pack awaiting Diwali and Ayudha puja shopping. I don't celebrate any of these festivals but boy was I tempted to pick up these lovely boxes adorned with flowers and the like. After that my determined partner stomped off to a shop which was selling most of the kitchenware in her list. I was asked to browse in a shop that had all types chartpapers, gift wrappers, oil papers, and what not. If Ana kutti ever had school projects to do, this would be a good place to pick up a year's supply. I had to however, curb the urge to pick up a dozen each of the various beautiful gift wrappers on display in the tiny shop, but I made do with just a dozen.
From there on, I just floated behind K as algae would on the surface of the ocean. Shops loaded with all kinds of plastic products, steel and brass vessels shops, jewellery showrooms, sweet shops and then a tiny little street where we stopped to pick up return gifts for the twins' birthday. It was a nice Ben10 gun that came with a soapy liquid. It promised many hours of bubble blowing for an excited child. I later checked a city showroom and found that the very same product was being sold at double the cost!! Truly Sowcarpet is the place for bulk orders.
After what seemed like a good two hours of walking, not one bit of which did I feel like I walked - so enthused was I in taking in the surroundings. I reminded K of purchasing silver ear-rings for Ana kutti. With a booming 'hold', a word she was liberally using the whole afternoon to indicate holding my horses while lusting over a probably overpriced product to being asked to be patient, K trudged off again towards another of her shops with that little paper still fluttering in her hands. She was an expert at bargaining; an art which I was surprised I had lost somewhere between my college and married life. I watched in rapt attention as she reeled of prices of her own, holding her ground rather stoutly where needed or thrusting what she thought was the right amount into the half protesting shopkeeper's hands. All in good humour.
At last we stopped for some mouth watering...more so, mouth singeing vada pavs (I had two of the tangy, spicy hot ones) at a tiny little hole in the wall shop. We also had a messy, cheese sandwich from a street vendor and hot jalebis that she always got on the house while she picked up food in a nearby hotel. All of it was yummy. Oh, and I did get those sweet little ear rings for a mere 165 bucks for Ana kutti. They were not silver, but they looked so pretty and solid and just what I wanted. Along with a tiny cup of their mouth scalding masala tea, I thought it was a good bargain to boot.
I am now awaiting my next visit to Sowcarpet. This time I would like to pick up some clothes and of course take snaps...a lot of snaps. Perhaps that would give me a sense of direction in that place just like the breadcrumbs did to Hansel and Gretel. But bargaining with the shopkeepers with a booming 'hold' - that would take several trips. Until then, I pray that K stays put as my neighbour.
One Wednesday afternoon she proposed that we go to Sowcarpet to help choose a pair of good bicycles for her twins whose birthday was coming up at the end of last month. I jumped up to the suggestion and on a dusty, hot afternoon, we left our kids sleeping in their respective homes and took an auto (because a taxi is way impractical) to Sowcarpet. It was just as I remembered from one earlier visit - un-navigable by a four wheeler or even a two wheeler but somehow okay for the ubiquitous three wheeler, confusing, mesmerizing and one of a kind. We left the auto guy and proceeded on foot to the first street in the place - Govindappa Naicken road. That was the only clear thought and bearing I had of my place before I was engulfed by the tiny streets that off shoot from the main road. K, who has the height and gait that screams nobody better mess with her set off purposefully clutching a small sheet of paper in her hand.
Since she plans on selling snacks from home under the rather sweet name Kitty Bites, she had quite a list of things to buy. Govindappa Naicken street seemed to be the place for dry fruits and nuts. I ended up buying sunflower seeds, black raisins for those cinnamon rolls I love making from time to time and fragrant mouth freshner in the very first shop we went. And I was supposed to have been a bystander in this trip.
We next went into a street selling all manner of bicycles - from a toddler's to a grown-up's and many were at competitive rates. After shortlisting two, a quick walk from there took us to through colourful vessels and utensil shops, many loaded with beautiful gift packs and return gifts pack awaiting Diwali and Ayudha puja shopping. I don't celebrate any of these festivals but boy was I tempted to pick up these lovely boxes adorned with flowers and the like. After that my determined partner stomped off to a shop which was selling most of the kitchenware in her list. I was asked to browse in a shop that had all types chartpapers, gift wrappers, oil papers, and what not. If Ana kutti ever had school projects to do, this would be a good place to pick up a year's supply. I had to however, curb the urge to pick up a dozen each of the various beautiful gift wrappers on display in the tiny shop, but I made do with just a dozen.
From there on, I just floated behind K as algae would on the surface of the ocean. Shops loaded with all kinds of plastic products, steel and brass vessels shops, jewellery showrooms, sweet shops and then a tiny little street where we stopped to pick up return gifts for the twins' birthday. It was a nice Ben10 gun that came with a soapy liquid. It promised many hours of bubble blowing for an excited child. I later checked a city showroom and found that the very same product was being sold at double the cost!! Truly Sowcarpet is the place for bulk orders.
After what seemed like a good two hours of walking, not one bit of which did I feel like I walked - so enthused was I in taking in the surroundings. I reminded K of purchasing silver ear-rings for Ana kutti. With a booming 'hold', a word she was liberally using the whole afternoon to indicate holding my horses while lusting over a probably overpriced product to being asked to be patient, K trudged off again towards another of her shops with that little paper still fluttering in her hands. She was an expert at bargaining; an art which I was surprised I had lost somewhere between my college and married life. I watched in rapt attention as she reeled of prices of her own, holding her ground rather stoutly where needed or thrusting what she thought was the right amount into the half protesting shopkeeper's hands. All in good humour.
At last we stopped for some mouth watering...more so, mouth singeing vada pavs (I had two of the tangy, spicy hot ones) at a tiny little hole in the wall shop. We also had a messy, cheese sandwich from a street vendor and hot jalebis that she always got on the house while she picked up food in a nearby hotel. All of it was yummy. Oh, and I did get those sweet little ear rings for a mere 165 bucks for Ana kutti. They were not silver, but they looked so pretty and solid and just what I wanted. Along with a tiny cup of their mouth scalding masala tea, I thought it was a good bargain to boot.
I am now awaiting my next visit to Sowcarpet. This time I would like to pick up some clothes and of course take snaps...a lot of snaps. Perhaps that would give me a sense of direction in that place just like the breadcrumbs did to Hansel and Gretel. But bargaining with the shopkeepers with a booming 'hold' - that would take several trips. Until then, I pray that K stays put as my neighbour.
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